Schiaparelli

HAUTE COUTURE SS23

FEBRUARY 2023

Text:
Mera Charles

Schiaparelli's Surrealist aesthetic set Paris Fashion Week ablaze with its stunning animal head replicas that had the internet buzzing. The collection featured three eerily realistic animal head outfits, including a snow leopard, lion, and wolf. Kylie Jenner made a splash in a customized lion head gown, while Shalom Harlow, Irina Shayk, and Naomi Campbell modeled the other animal-inspired creations. While some praised the artistry of the reproductions, others criticized the house for glamorizing trophy hunting.

Creative director Daniel Roseberry explained that the photorealistic quality of the animal replicas was the new Surrealism in 2023. He worked with an artist from Israel who sculpted the creatures by hand out of foam and resin and covered them with embroidered faux fur. The reference to Dante's "Inferno" inspired the spring collection, which focused on the themes of trial, tribulation, and doubt.

Despite his success in the fashion world, Roseberry still experiences blank page anxiety when creating a full collection. His solution was to push the technical capacity of his atelier to the brink, resulting in impressive breast plates made of materials like mother-of-pearl and lemontree wood. While he wants to take risks and create awe-inspiring looks, he also recognizes the practical needs of his couture clients and included a variety of black evening gowns and hourglass jackets laced down the back, corset-style.

Overall, Schiaparelli's stunning collection proved to be a hit, with its daring designs and commitment to pushing the boundaries of fashion.