Elie Saab

HAUTE COUTURE SS23

FEBRUARY 2023

Text:
Mera Charles

Elie Saab's latest collection is an extravagant display of his love for couture gowns. The 69 looks featured in the collection are adorned with sequins, embroideries, appliqués, passementeries, and embellishments of all sorts, creating a regal and majestic feel that Saab was aiming for. Each piece seems to be basked in the golden aura of dawn, in a land blessed by eternal sunshine, creating a fantasy world where opulence and grandeur reign supreme.

Saab's front rows were filled with real clients who were ecstatic at the prospect of adding more fabulousness to their wardrobes. Saab's universe does not subscribe to minimalism or understatement, as evidenced by the extravagant designs on display.

The magnificent embroideries, appliqués, and embellishments were present on every gown, with crystals and pearls lavished on mermaid dresses in tones of aqua, delicate pink, and cerulean blue. Abstract motifs inspired by Asian imagery were loosely present on tight heart-shaped bodices, corsets, trains of sinuous peplums, and on sumptuous capes and opera coats in smooth silk duchesse.

Saab's models were accompanied by men dressed in equally sumptuous attire, highlighting his faithful male clientele who delight in lavishly decorated suits, tailcoats, and caftans, all cut in ivory featherlight cashmeres and wools. Vanitas is definitely a virtue at Saab's fashion house, regardless of gender.